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When assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their small restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.